How Audi A4 Battery Replacement And Coding

Car model: Audi A4

 

Symptom: left my car in covered storage for 3 months, was in a rush and forgot to disconnect the battery before flying home. The car was running perfectly fine before leaving, when I got back, the battery was completely dead. It took two jumper boxes (battery and under the hood) to get the car running. Now, I need to jump it every time I drive.

 

Solution:

Option 1: Called Audi to inquire about replacing the battery, they quoted me a ridiculous $600 (apparently it takes them 2.5 hours of labor to replace and code a battery).

 

Option 2: AutoZone charges $150, but can’t code it. Sears said they could replace and “register” the battery for $280.

 

Option 3: I ditched my OEM (Varta) battery a month ago, installed an Odyssey PC-1350 and never looked back.
You can run different batteries in these vehicles. Don’t let the dealers b/s you.
If you really need to code the battery buy a foxwell NT530 scanner. Bang for the buck you can’t beat it for $200. It does battery coding, channel adaptation (used it for green menu access), and rear brake caliper functions (for pad changes)
As a mechanic, i have VCDS, a Snap-On Zeus, and the foxwell scanner. I wear the heck out of the foxwell scanner. It’s just cheap, and it works great.
My only caveat, some of the letters on the screen are a bit tiny. Hitting middle age, and going blind…. Ha!

 

Option 4:

Replaced my battery in my 2014 b8.5 last night. Had a 15% off coupon for battery and installation from the Audi dealer so I got the battery for $180 and I took it home and popped it in. Wasn’t sure I was gonna code it but it was actually really simple.

 

Everything you need is on the battery it’s self. The the part number is on the top and the serial number is visible if you use your smartphone camera to look at the square qr code on the back. I did the coding in my obdeleven app with my smart phone. I have yet to find a single think that my obdeleven can’t do compared to vag-com.

 

Before and after screen shots below:

Source:http://www.foxwellsupport.com/audi-a4-battery-replacement-and-coding-method/

How to Solve 04 Toyota 4Runner 4.7l alternator issues?

Car model and year: 04 Toyota 4Runner 4.7l

 

Issue: have alternator issues

 

Details:

I went on a business trip for a week, got back home went to crank it and the famous click click click. Battery was under warranty took it to napa they tested it said it was just low they charged it and i brought it back installed and got her running. Here is where I think I have a problem, I let it run for about 15 minutes to warm up it was rather warm here in South Carolina over the weekend. I had to go to my shed and get something so I turned it off. when I returned I cranked it back up and now when it cranks if the tack gets below 1000 rpms the engine shuts off. After a couple of times of doing this not wanting to kill the battery it still does this when cranking and giving it gas, it will run but when I take my foot off the pedal it dies.

 

Optional method:

Option 1:

I’d start with Foxwell BT715 battery analyzer from:

http://www.foxwelltool.com/wholesale/foxwell-bt715-battery-analyzer.html

 

Foxwell BT715 will tell you that the alternator is “good” (or bad) and what the charging rate is, as well as if the battery is “good” (or bad).

 

Option 2:

If you can get the truck to most any auto part store they can test it for you for free. That way you don’t have to buy that tool unless you want to. Just get it started, and drive over to a store, keep it running and they should be able to do a load test on the battery and charging system. Its not 100 percent accurate but its pretty good.

 

Operability:

For the option 2 method, it was my first thought but when I go to put it into gear it shuts off…..

 

Option 3:

Use a meter… measure at battery while engine idles, you should have ~ 14VDC. If only 12VDC or lower, the alternator is not working properly.

 

Option 4:

I’m guessing it could possibly be something going on with the throttle body, in older models vehicles the TPS…Throttle Position Sensor is a separate/replaceable part attached to the throttle body and if bad can do what your’s is doing plus other issues, but on the 4th Gens 4Runners the TPS is integrated into the throttle body and can’t be replaced.

I have never had to test one but you can Google search “Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Throttle Position Sensor” , which may help you get started on how to test the sensor to see if it’s bad, you may have to do more research to be able to actually test it properly, such as the values mentioned to know if it’s within the correct range and the type of sensor it is.

 

Option 5:

I suspect a bad battery coupled with bad NAPA testing, it is possible. I have had batteries heat up and the plates touch. So If possible check voltage, find a ground inside the car, ground one side of the meter and CAREFULLY test the cigarette lighter voltage, I believe it is straight battery juice. Be careful not to short out the probe, protect it with tape if you have to.

 

Please try any of the above methods according to your actual situation.

 

Good luck!

Source:http://www.foxwellsupport.com/how-to-fix-04-toyota-4runner-4-7l-alternator-issues/

Most Effective Way To Bleed A Toyota 4Runner 02 Sport

To Fixin to replace ABS/Master Cylinder Unit & need bleeding, Foxwell NT630 Plus is a good choice, it has brake bleeding function for cars equipped with ABS brakes

Test here:

Car model and year: Toyota 4Runner 02 Sport

Symptoms: Prolonged motor cycling-whirring sound upon startup. Squishy brake pedal and rig lurches forward when almost at a stop, while making motor cycling-whirring sounds.

 

What I tried to do:

Physically inspected all connection harnesses at the ABS unit as well as speed sensors at each wheel and they seem to be fine. No breaks etc.

Picked up a complete ABS/Master Cylinder unit from a local guy for $150 so why not swap it out to see if it’ll help.

While researching bleeding procedures I stumbled upon the 4th Gen site and they seem to be split into two camps: normal bleeding procedure and those saying the ABS actuators had to be tripped via some sort of Toyota software and a special connector. Apparently if you leave the ABS unit alone you can bleed old school but if you replace the ABS unit, like I’m going to do, you need the software? Others say to just drive the car hard, brake like a lunatic to trip the ABS and then bleed.

 

My question:

If ABS actuators are not tripped and opened, air may accumulate inside the ABS unit itself?

What is the most effective way to bleed an 02 when replacing the ABS/Master Cylinder Unit?

 

Suggestions:

I was checking out this scanner, not a bad price, when I noticed in the fine print that it works with Toyotas…2003 and up… search continues.

 

Found it! Same price as the dealer to bleed and I won’t get sucked into other “needed” repairs.

http://www.foxwelltool.com/wholesale/nt630-plus-abs-airbag-reset-tool-with-sas-calibration.html

 

Looks good. Pages #26 & #27 of interest in the user’s manual.
Special Functions – Foxwell NT630 Pro Manual [Page 26]

Might be worth calling Foxwell tech support to see if it will hook up with an 2002 Toyota brake system. Same as 2003.

Worth the call as these will usually get a *lot* of vehicles but will skip weird ones.

Want to sure on what you exactly need for your vehicle.

I. E. Doubt it does 100% ABS function bi-directional for all the vehicles listed in the advertisement.

Will do most. That’s the problem with these lower end cost units. Truth in advertising.

Then there are other units (next price increment up) which simply clone the auto factory software and bundle it up. (software license infringement?)

This is where the fun begins.

 

Test reports:

Yes, NT630 Plus  ABS & Airbag Reset Tool work well on Toyota 4Runner 02 Sport!

 

Hope it helps.

Source:http://www.foxwellsupport.com/most-effective-way-to-bleed-a-toyota-4runner-02-sport/

Battery Analyzer:Foxwell BT715 Vs. BT705 Vs. Foxwell BT780

News! Foxwell BT715 Battery Analyzer is newly released to replace Foxwell BT705.

 

Foxwell BT715 vs. Foxwell BT705:

Test start-stop AGM and EFB batteries: BT715 yes, BT705 no.

With Internal resistance: BT715 yes, BT705 no.

Supports ripple voltage test: BT715 yes, BT705 no.

Bluetooth printer: BT715 no, BT705 yes

 

 

Foxwell BT780 Battery Analyzer nice features: Test start-stop AGM and EFB batteries, Internal resistance, Ripple voltage test, built-in with thermal printer and more languages available, etc.

Foxwell BT715 Vs. BT705 Vs. Foxwell BT780

Item	Foxwell BT-780	Foxwell BT715	Foxwell BT705
MUX/Outlook
Net Weight	0.8KG	1.6KG	1.2KG
Dimension	90*240*45 MM		190*90*36mm (L*W*H)
Voltage Measuring	6V-32V	6V-32V	6V-32V
Battery Rating	100 to 2000CCA	100 to 2000CCA	100 to 2000CCA
Standard support	CCA,BCI,CA,MCA,JIS,DIN,IEC,EN,SAE,GB	CCA,BCI,CA,MCA,JIS,DIN,IEC,EN,SEA,GB	CCA,BCI,CA,MCA,JIS,DIN,IEC,EN,SEA,GB
Flooded, AGM, GEL	√	√	√
Test start-stop AGM and EFB batteries	√	√	—
Internal resistance	√	√	—
Ripple voltage test	√	√	—
Printer	Built-in thermal printer	No Bluetooth Printer	Optional Bluetooth Printer
Language	Chinese, Dutch, English, French, German, Hungarian, Japanese, Korean, Polish, Portuguese, Russian and Spanish	English, Spanish, French, German, Dutch (can reset any language as you need)	English, French, German, Russian, Spanish
Price	$350 + shipping cost	119USD incl. shipping cost	$159+shipping cost with Bluetooth Printer; $125 free shipping without Bluetooth Printer

source:http://www.foxwellsupport.com/foxwell-bt715-vs-bt705-vs-foxwell-bt780-battery-analyzer/

Solved! 2016 Rogue Airbag Light Solid Not Blinking With NT630Pro

Here is someone’s experience from NICOclub of how to solve airbag light is stuck on:

hey y’all, i wired a dashcam into my parents’ car yesterday and now the airbag light is stuck on (but not blinking, just solid on). it seems the normal reset process (on/off 7 seconds, diag mode) is not working. i did, because i’m an idiot, unplug the aircon cluster and therefore the passenger occupancy sensor light, which likely caused this, but given most people see a blinking SRS light i’m not sure this is the case.

does anyone have an idea 1) how to reset this, or 2) if this is going to require some major work on the vehicle? also am curious how this would be caused vice the blinking light. from reading the FSM, it seems that it’s likely due to deployment, but none of the bags deployed

I was worried since this one wasn’t blinking it was going to be f***ed. i ordered a Foxwell NT630 which seems to be pretty solid at airbag faults, hoping that will clear it

 

Test Results：
The foxwell NT630 pro did a solid job. connected it, it detected the VIN and let me choose ABS/SRS check for the rogue. it shows no fault with ABS (whew hahaha) and 1 fault with SRS. upon opening the fault list, it showed a fault for the passenger airbag light (the light in the center console). while IMO this is silly to require special tooling to clear, i was able to “quick clear” all the codes, and the airbag light went out. no issues since.

Recommended Foxwell NT630 Pro :http://www.foxwelltool.com/wholesale/nt630-plus-abs-airbag-reset-tool-with-sas-calibration.html